Sandwiches are having a resurgence. They're becoming increasingly gourmet, getting topped with truffles and microgreens smaller than ever before, all while costing half a mortgage.
One shop in Cambridge Heath is new to the scene and already generating a reputation as One Of The Big Boys. Started in 2019 as a restaurant pop-up by Zac Whittle and Freddie Sheen, Rogue Sarnies soon rose out of the lockdowns' ashes, now taking up the conservatory adjacent to their main restaurant, Rogues.
Suspecting these sandwiches would be the peak of Hackney hipster culture (their website includes the definition of a sandwich), I prepared for the worst as I entered their tiny courtyard. There, I joined the rather large crowd of confused lunchgoers struggling to order online.
While Rogue Sarnies has a counter, a menu, and a card reader, they only take orders through an online portal that lets you pre-order for a certain time. But after placing that order, you'll still have to pop inside and tell them you're there so they can dig your receipt out.
I witnessed several people give up on the system and leave, many with exasperated cries of 'they don't even have the beef one!' Indeed, their beef sarnie was sold out by noon.
Instead, I uncharacteristically settled for the veggie option: burrata, tenderstem broccoli, and veggie 'nduja. Along with a honey drizzle and olive oil, it sounded like a strong contender to the spicy mortadella.
After 15 minutes of waiting, my name was called out from the open kitchen window as my sandwich floated down to my level. I humbly accepted the burrito-wrapped parcel from a man with a backwards baseball cap and unruly hair and prepared for greatness.
The sandwich leaked all over me the instant I tore open the foil. My first big bite revealed an uneven distribution of nduja and burrata, giving me a mouthful so spicy my nose watered instantly.
Upon the next bite, I got all burrata. While it is my favourite cheese, I should not have to rearrange the toppings in a sandwich that cost me £10.
With all the elements united, the sandwich was delicious. Creamy burrata mellowed out the super-spicy n'duja, while the broccoli added some much-needed crunch.
But there was no revelatory moment, no lightbulb above my head as I realised this was the best sandwich in the entire world that I could never live without again. Instead, all I felt was a painful 'nduja-induced burn in my chest that desperately called for some Rennie.
The sandwich was good, sure. The toppings all went together and all tasted good, and the bread absorbed the juices well while remaining intact. But for £10, I expected to be blown away - we might be in a cozzie livs, but it's still a lot of money for a sandwich.
I'm afraid Rogue Sarnies was just as hipster-y as I expected - overpriced and underdelivering. If the price was lower, my opinion might be different. But in today's economic climate, the price is really important.
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